West Papua is home to over 40 species of Birds-of-Paradise. The best time to visit is during the peak breeding season in September and October. Top viewing locations include Waigeo Island (Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise), Raja Ampat (Red Bird-of-Paradise), and the Arfak Mountains (Vogelkop Superb Bird-of-Paradise).
The dense lowland rainforests, misty mountain ranges, and remote island-jungles of Indonesia’s West Papua Province provide habitat for some of the planet’s most spectacular birds. Chief among these are the birds-of-paradise, a family renowned for their vivid plumage, elaborate courtship dances and remarkable diversity.
A forest floor gem. Witness the stunning, jewel-like colors of a Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise in West Papua, where the jungle’s most extraordinary avian encounters await, just a few feet from the ground.
The fabulous hues of the birds-of-paradise blaze against the persistent green of their rainforest environment. The male pole dancers, branch dancers and ballet dancers strut and dazzle in costumes worthy of the stage, parading cropped capes and skirts, frills, ruffs and puffs, gorgets and breast shields, head ribbons, bonnets, neck wattles, expandable fan-like tails, elongated quills, streamers, whips, beards and twisted wiry feathers that curl like handlebar mustaches. The birds can even extend these uniquely-shaped feathers and line them up precisely to magically change their outline into an alluring new shape. What makes for such a sexy blend of attire and choreography is a mystery, but the more excessive the better, and all with the single purpose of attracting female attention. Yet it seems implausible that despite their garrulous calls, brilliant colors, perfect dance moves and extraordinary ability to shape-shift, the males are not guaranteed to win a mate. At the end of a male’s performance, the ultra-choosy females move in closely to inspect and sometimes touch before making the final decision to accept or reject.
I first learned of the birds’ existence many years ago when I was living in England. To me, they were akin to creatures from an imaginary land, so it was no surprise to be told I’d have to travel to the other side of the world to see them in their natural habitat. At that time, the other side of the world was indeed a land of my imagination. Many of the more-than-40 known species occur in West Papua, but their distribution is often highly localized, with certain species found only on specific islands or mountain ranges. Seeing them has always been a major challenge… until now. What better way to encounter the birds-of-paradise endemic to Raja Ampat and Maluku than by island-hopping on an adventure cruise aboard a traditional Indonesian phinisi such as The Ombak Putih. I jumped at the opportunity.
From the lush islands of Raja Ampat to the cool, mist-covered Arfak Mountains, West Papua’s varied landscape serves as a vital sanctuary. Each region offers unique micro-climates that support the incredible diversity of these avian species.
Among the most celebrated is the Red Bird-of-Paradise, a restricted-range species, endemic to Raja Ampat and found exclusively on the islands of Waigeo, Batanta, and Gam.
It was dark, wet and windy outside, when I awoke at a ridiculously early hour, and although I’d been wanting to see these birds for almost as long as I could remember, I nearly changed my mind, but after a few minutes of indecision, I hauled myself out of bed and joined my companions. We set out in the tender and used a flashlight to identify the rendezvous spot on a nearby beach, where a local guide, Paulus, was waiting to usher us into the mist-shrouded forest for a slippery forty-minute hike up a steep, muddy track. In recent years, local guides such as Paulus have become the custodians of the birds-of-paradise, drawing on generations of ‘Traditional Ecological Knowledge’ and customary land-rights to safeguard the rainforests. Today, ecotourism offers them a sustainable income, while creating strong incentives to preserve habitats rather than exploit them.
We were hoping the rain would stop in time for the birds to appear and do their thing, because every morning at dawn – during mating season – at the very top of the tallest tree, way up high on a forested ridge, the Red Birds-of-Paradise come out to play. Each male goes to the same tree every year; some even use the same trees for generations. Luckily for us, the sky cleared and the birds appeared.
We heard them before we saw them, the males repeating a nasal “caw” to broadcast their whereabouts and lure far-away females to come and hook up. Then, silhouetted against the new light of day, four males entered the canopied ‘lek’, their tail wires streaming behind them. A few minutes later, the arrival of two females, notable for their lack of frills and finery, sent the guys into a raptured frenzy; each one bowing down low and erecting the plumes over his back, while remaining on his own personal branch of the tree. As the sky got brighter, we were able to see their gorgeous colours – the male’s yellow beak, his iridescent emerald-green face, a dark green feather pompom above each eye and a train of glossy red plumes. What followed next was a shameless sex show with one of the males posturing stiffly before hanging upside down from his branch. He then spread, fanned and fluttered his wings in a crimson fountain, seducing his prize for us all to see.
The following morning, at the same unforgiving hour on Waigeo Island, I was thrilled to see the Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise, a small but splendid, restricted-range species, endemic exclusively to Waigeo and Batanta. He was instantly recognizable by his bright red and yellow body, curled tail feathers, and a piercing blue, bald crown, crisscrossed by fine lines of black feathers. On the forest floor, he had carefully cleared leaves and debris from a patch of ground to create a ‘court,’ on which to perform his intricate dance. The dear boy was waiting for a visiting female but sadly for him, on this occasion, the only visiting female was me, watching from within a concealed viewing hide.
The forests of Raja Ampat are also home to the Lesser Bird-of-Paradise, which lives on the islands of Misool and Yapen. The male has a vibrant plumage, with a reddish-brown chest, long ornamental plumes of yellow and white draped across his back, a shimmering emerald-green neck, and bright yellow irises. The King Bird-of-Paradise is one of the smallest members of the family; the male characterized by an intense scarlet plumage and two elegant tail wires tipped with emerald discs. Other species found in the region include the glossy black Jobi Manucode, the Glossy Manucode, and the Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise, which displays a shimmering green breast shield and golden cape.
Beyond the mainland, the Maluku Islands harbor unique species like the Wallace’s Standardwing. Observing these elusive birds in their island habitat offers a fascinating glimpse into the broader diversity of the region’s avian life.
Alfred Russel Wallace, who ‘found’ it in 1858, after which it remained unseen for decades until it was finally rediscovered in 1983. The male has a glossy violet-and-lilac crown and an emerald-green breast shield. His most striking features are two pairs of long white plumes extending from his wing, which can be raised or lowered at will. The males gather and perform an astonishing aerial display, ‘parachuting’ with their wings and vivid green breast shield outspread, with the wing ‘standards’ fluttering above their backs. The standardwing is the westernmost species of the true birds-of-paradise, living on the Malukan islands of Halmahera and Bacan.
The Arfak Mountains are renowned for their spectacular avian displays. Here, a bird of paradise performs its intricate courtship ritual, a compelling sight that makes this high-altitude region a must-visit destination for bird enthusiasts.
On the mainland of West Papua, lowland rainforests around Sorong and other parts of the Bird’s Head Peninsula provide habitat for bird-of-paradise species such as the Black-billed Sicklebill, a large bird with long curved bill and iridescent plumage. Also, the Trumpet Manucode, named for its distinctive resonant calls that echo through the forest canopy. Meanwhile, the most coveted destination for watching birds-of-paradise lies in the remote Arfak Mountains. Among the most incredible species here is the Western Parotia. During courtship, the male spreads his flank feathers to form a skirt and performs an intricate ballet dance. He hops and pivots across a carefully maintained display court on the forest floor while raising six delicate, antennae-like head wires. Also found in these mountains is the Arfak Astrapia, a large elegant bird with iridescent plumage, as well as the Long-tailed Paradigalla, a distinctive black bird with striking blue and yellow facial wattles. Finally, one of the most visually dramatic species here is the Vogelkop Superb Bird-of-Paradise. The male can entirely transform his appearance, expanding a dazzling electric-blue breast shield and cape into an oval shape that surrounds his head. Against the dim forest background, his glowing, light-trapping plumage appears otherworldly. Reaching these remote areas is challenging, but can be done by booking an add-on birding tour; please contact our specialists for more information.
The peak season for witnessing flamboyant courtship performances occurs in September and October. At this time of year, many species are actively breeding, and males gather regularly at their leks. To see, and/or successfully photograph any of these species, you’ll need a pair of binoculars, and a camera with a zoom lens.
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