Thinking of cruising the Upper Mekong in Laos versus the Lower Mekong that winds its way from Cambodia into Vietnam’s delta? These are completely different journeys and completely different boats, of course. In Laos, the Anouvong, owned by Heritage Line, was the first luxury boutique cruise in the country when it debuted in 2023 and is named for the last king of Vientiane, the capital of the country.
Traveling downstream, a four-day journey from the Thai border at Huay Xai in northwestern Laos sees the Anouvong travel 186 miles down to a Lao former royal capital, Luang Prabang and is for those who want an authentic snapshot of northern Laos. For a longer, immersive journey, the Anouvong continues from Luang Prabang downstream to the middle Mekong at Vientiane or vice versa on seven- and nine-night cruises.
Experience a slower, more tranquil way of life along the banks of the Upper Mekong, where serene waters mirror the quiet beauty of small riverside communities and dramatic hills.
Whereas the Lower Mekong can seem like an industrial highway at some moments during the day with cargo transporting goods and bustle at Mekong riverfront towns, the Upper Mekong is peaceful with very little traffic. This is remote northern Laos where the road network is sporadic and boats used for commuter journeys, infrequent. In fact, it’s so peaceful, at dusk, the only sound to be heard is that of children giggling as they come out of the tree-lined riverbank from villages and head into the water to splash about. I always enjoyed these quiet moments as the sun went down. The light is also perfect for photographers in the group!
For those who like quiet contemplation amid cultural visits, it’s the perfect journey. And, although the Upper Mekong is much quieter, evoking a sort of nostalgia for a bygone age, it would be remiss not to mention Laos’ all-out-quest to dam parts of the Upper Mekong to generate hydroelectricity. The Luang Prabang Hydropower Project, 15 miles north of the Unesco-protected Buddhist temples of the town is expected to be operational before 2030. And passengers who journey between Vientiane and Luang Prabang pass through the navigation dock of the 32.6-metre high Xayaburi Hydroelectric Dam.
Upper Mekong boats cruise through a landscape that is completely different to that of the Lower Mekong, too. In northern Laos, mountains with limestone peaks rise from the river edge and tower above small villages and peanut farms laid out on sandy banks. Caves in the limestone mountains harbor holy sites. Through southern Vietnam and Cambodia, on the other hand, boats journey through a landscape that is flat with rice paddies, tropical fruit and veg farms, large fish farms and flood plains.
Discover the unique charm of Luang Prabang, where historic architecture and quiet street scenes capture the distinct cultural landscape found along the Upper Mekong.
Cruising on the Anouvong brings the benefit of exploring smaller, bewitching cities. Luang Prabang, settled on a finger of land between the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, was the capital of Lane Xang (Kingdom of a Million Elephants). Its royal history meets Buddhist temples and French colonial influence makes it exquisitely beautiful. Sacred Luang Prabang is bursting with cafés, restaurants and chic boutique stores, too.
Take in the stunning cityscape of Vientiane, dominated by the majestic golden spires of Pha That Luang, showcasing the rich cultural landmarks of the Upper Mekong.
Vientiane is the underrated capital of Laos with the country’s best restaurants and bars and some of its finest sights. It’s intriguing too, with its remnants of French colonial architecture, angular communist monuments, statue-graced Buddhist temples and colorful tuk tuks. The temple of Wat Sisaket is one of the most sublime temples in the whole country with its scarlet and gold-leaf stencilled columns and thousands of Buddha statues in bronze, terracotta and teak. It’s one of the few temples to survive the city’s ransacking by the Siamese in 1827 and it’s the temple I always visit – for its beauty – when I head to Vientiane.
A Lower Mekong cruise means you’ll be immersed in manic Ho Chi Minh City and rising Phnom Penh, both cities pulsing with energy and exciting restaurant and bar scenes, many with Michelin stars and climbing World’s Best Bars lists, plus a wealth of cultural sights. Vientiane and Luang Prabang are dwarfed by these major cities and are much more accessible due to their size and the fact that you can stroll around them easily.
Delve into local history with fascinating shore excursions to riverside sanctuaries, where ancient caves house hundreds of golden sculptures overlooking the water.
By cruising the Upper Mekong, you’ll encounter more variety on Anouvong itineraries, too, than on the Lower Mekong. At Pakbeng, between Huay Xai town on the Thai–Laos border, and Luang Prabang, you’ll meet Asian elephants at the Mekong Elephant Park, an ethical elephant sanctuary hidden amidst teak and tamarind trees. Elephas Maximus is endangered with just 300 jumbos remaining in the wild in Laos and around 500 in captivity, mainly rescued from tourist camps and logging camps that are now outlawed. This is a special experience and a favorite of mine as you’ll get close-up views of the elephants and their calves bathing, walking or being treated at the elephant medical post. Watching an elephant getting a foot spa is really memorable!
Downstream, towards Luang Prabang, are the Pak Ou Caves. It’s a serene and sacred spot. You’ll find yourself surrounded by thousands of bronze and wood statues placed in the caves. It was at Pak Ou caves that a Lao monarch would visit and meditate before his coronation.
The picturesque Kwang Si Falls, downstream towards Vientiane, are a highlight. A series of cascading falls sees the tumbling water pour into pools the color of pale turquoise. The Laos Buffalo Dairy, set up by an enterprising Australian couple and American chef who were baffled that Lao buffalo weren’t milked, is found close by. The milk, cheese and ice creams are now very sought after. Don’t leave without buying a scoop of lemongrass or caramel buffalo ice cream!
Immerse yourself in intimate cultural encounters along the river, including traditional blessing ceremonies that connect travelers with centuries-old local customs.
The beautiful Anouvong has just 10 cabins and a maximum of 20 guests, so the cultural encounters at the small villages along the way, where you’ll meet everyone from artisans to monks, feel more authentic and don’t overwhelm the communities visited. A memorable experience is the Baci ceremony. The Baci is a welcome ceremony whose spiritual roots predate the 14th-century arrival of Buddhism in Laos. When I visited, villagers from a minority Tai Lue village invited us to congregate in front of candles and marigolds with a shaman. In the hush of the room, he invited the 32 spirits that inhabit the human body to return home. The ceremony calls for harmony and good luck. The return to the body was complete when the villagers tied a white cotton bracelet around our wrists. We felt truly welcomed.
Savor the complex, tangy profiles of traditional Lao cuisine with expertly crafted local dishes made from fresh, vibrant regional ingredients on board.
Last but not least, Lao food is, understandably, favored by the chefs on the Anouvong. Lao food is fragrant and fiery. It’s much spicier than cuisine from the surrounding countries and much of it comes with strong umami flavors. The food served on the Anouvong has been toned down a little to cater for western taste. The menus offering four-course meals do offer a range of Lao food as well as western cuisine. My favorites were the punchy Luang Prabang sausage, Mok Pa, a delicate and delicious tilapia marinated in turmeric and wrapped in banana leaf, and a flavor-packed green chicken curry. Rice, as in the Lower Mekong region, is a staple part of the diet in Laos but in this part of Southeast Asia, the locals eat sticky rice which is picked up with the hand and used as a spoon to scoop up foods. I can’t not mention the beer. The Anouvong has a wonderful cocktail list but a Beerlao, brewed with jasmine rice, is the ultimate sundowner.
Your Rainforest Cruises guide will be able to offer more detailed advice on the Anouvong cruise. It’s also worth noting that the new fast train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang takes less than two hours if guests would like to spend more time in each of these cities pre- or post-cruise.
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